A short tale of two Syrias
Experiences and perspectives from a trip to Syria in February 2020.
I recently travelled to Syria for a short break. During my planning, I read articles and posts from people who had been there (particularly posts by Joan and Christian). My aim here is to build on those posts, providing an update on travel arrangements and the situation on the ground as at February 2020.
I’ll talk through the process of getting into the country, provide some perspectives on the places I visited, and give an assessment on the current situation as I saw it on the ground. I’ll also include a few practical points about money, connectivity, power, and photography. I’ll wrap up with a few recommendations for itineraries. This wasn’t a sponsored trip.
Before diving in, I’m sure you realise that Syria is in the midst of a war that has been going for almost nine years (starting in March 2011), and that the Syrian people have suffered immeasurably throughout this time. While the situation is significantly better today than it was in the last few years, fighting goes on in western Aleppo and Idlib, and to the south of Damascus. When I was in Damascus, a car bomb detonated in al-Mezzeh (not that far from where I was staying) and Israel conducted several airstrikes around the city. There are still massive numbers of displaced people within Syria and in neighbouring countries. The suffering isn’t quite over yet. On a more positive note, some families are returning to their villages and towns, and rebuilding has started in many areas.
As my guide said repeatedly during the trip, “we just need time”.
Travel arrangements
Travelling to Syria is relatively straight forward. You’ll need to arrange a tour through an approved Syrian tour operator (this is currently a government requirement). They’ll take care of applying for your security clearance, which is a pre-requisite for travel to Syria and to be eligible for a tourist visa. To apply for your security clearance, your tour operator will need a scan of your passport photo page and proof of employment (basically what you do for a job — most likely to control the entry of journalists). Expect that the tour operator (or Syrian government) may also dig around your social media profiles.
Getting the security clearance doesn’t take long, but to be safe, I recommend starting the process about a month before your intended arrival date. Once your tour operator has confirmed your security clearance has been processed, you can go ahead and book your flights.
Your tour operator may have fixed tour schedules with list prices. I decided on my own itinerary in advance and discussed it with my tour operator. There will be some flexibility to change things on the ground once you’re there.
Alone or as a group
I initially planned to travel to Syria alone. Partway through the process of settling my itinerary, the tour operator suggested I link up with some other people who wanted to go in the same month. This is probably easier for the tour operator, and it would have saved me quite a bit of money. I started the process of coordinating with the other person, which ended up being a bit of a disaster. I ended up having to change my travel dates and itinerary multiple times. In the end, the other person decided they wanted to do something different. By that stage, I couldn’t book seats on my original flights and had to change to a different routing, costing me an additional $500+. Not ideal, but good lessons learned.
If you’re travelling with a partner, family member, or friend, you’ll be able to coordinate your plans more easily. But I’d recommend that you are more careful if your tour operator tries to link you up with another traveller. Obviously, a key factor is that you have no idea whether you’ll get on with the person, or whether they’ll be a huge pain in the ass and wreck your holiday.
Travel from Lebanon
I entered Syria via Lebanon, flying into Beirut. The guide confirmed that it’s also possible to enter via Jordan. There are several other border crossings between Lebanon and Syria, and the guide said that these were also accessible to foreigners, so there is potentially a range of choices. But overall Beirut direct to Damascus is fast and straightforward.
The tour operator kindly arranged for a driver to pick me up at my guesthouse in Beirut. The driver didn’t speak much English, but then I didn’t speak much Arabic, so we were a good match.
As we drove into the hills east of Beirut, we faced an unexpected challenge — snow! The roads were closed to vehicles without snow chains. The driver bought a simple snow chain from a local snow chain entrepreneur, fitted it to the front left wheel, and we were off again. Apparently, this road can be completely closed at times due to snow, so plan accordingly.
Border formalities
Crossing the border was a simple and painless process. There were minimal queues at the time I went through (mid-morning), so we were able to clear both sides quite quickly.
As we exited the Lebanese border, I filled in a departure card (this isn’t required when you exit Lebanon by air). The immigration officers didn’t ask any questions regarding why I was travelling to Syria. Once we cleared the process on the Lebanese side, we entered Syria and drove for a bit to get to the Syrian immigration checkpoint.
On entering the Syria immigration building, I was directed to a small room to be checked by a doctor. There wasn’t really a check (no rubber gloves, thankfully), and he just smiled and welcomed me to Syria, handing me a signed piece of paper to show the immigration officers. A nurse scanned my temperature before I entered the immigration hall (these procedures are probably in place due to the current COVID-19 epidemic).
I completed an immigration card, then paid for my visa at the Commercial Bank of Syria counter inside the immigration hall. The price of the visa varies based on nationality. You can pay in USD, although note that once inside Syria, you’ll need to be more careful how you use USD (more details below).
Once I had my visa receipt, I queued up at the immigration counter for the standard formalities. The immigration officers didn’t ask any questions (the language barrier probably a factor here). Overall the process was very routine with no hint of any potential issues.
Once through customs and immigration, we were on the road to Damascus. It’s a good drive on good roads. The driver gave a ride to one of the customs officers into town — always good to build relationships.
There were a few military checkpoints along the way, which may be disconcerting at first but you’ll soon get used to it. Your driver may pass the soldiers money (it’s a pretty subtle and obviously well-practised technique). As my driver explained, “some checkpoint take money, some checkpoint take cigarette.”
Note that as a foreigner, you will never be expected to pay at a checkpoint. Leave the decision-making to your driver. Payments were actually pretty rare, which is a good thing because if they had to pay money at every checkpoint, they’d go broke.
Tour operator office
On arrival in Damascus, my first stop was to the tour operator’s office, where I met the local team and my guide. I had a coffee, paid the tour operator in full in USD, then had a walk around town as the driver refuelled the car and bought me a SIM card.
Then we were off.
Homs
It wasn’t long out of Damascus that I saw the first signs of the conflict. The town of Harasta was almost completely destroyed. Harasta (on the left side of the road as you drive north from Damascus) was occupied by rebels in 2012. The town changed hands multiple times and was finally captured by the Syrian Army in March 2018.
Just past Harasta is Douma. The battle of Douma took place in 2012. Again, the urban area is mostly destroyed. Beyond Douma is the industrial city of Adra, which was the location of the Adra massacre, where members of the al-Nusra Front murdered at least 32 civilians from different minority groups.
Along the side of the road are large car dealerships that were damaged during the fighting and are still closed. Remnants from a more peaceful time.
We passed several military checkpoints along the road to Homs. At one of the checkpoints, a soldier was complaining to our driver how hard life is. A very soft shakedown for a few Syrian pounds (this was not typical).
After a few hours of driving, we reached Homs.
Homs is centrally located, close to Lebanon, and is considered a strategic city. The conflict in Homs started in May 2011 and ended three years later in May 2014, leaving parts of the city in ruins.
If you’re travelling to Syria to see the full impact of a modern urban conflict, then you’ll see that first hand in Homs. Entire city blocks have been pummelled and abandoned. The scope of the damage to parts of Homs is simply staggering.
It’s a human tragedy on an epic scale.
Using satellite imagery from 2014, 2013, 2011, and 2010, UNITAR/UNOSAT created a damage site density index for affected areas in the major cities in Syria. City-wide analyses revealed a total of 13,778 affected structures in Homs. I obviously only saw a tiny portion of these, but believe me, it was enough.
We stopped briefly to visit the Khalil bin al-Walid Mosque (which we couldn’t enter because it was closed), and from there the guide was happy to move on and leave the city.
I suppose from the perspective of the tour operator or guide, there isn’t much to see in Homs, and I had the impression that the guide didn’t want me spending much time there. This may have been to avoid foreigners witnessing the scale of the damage. I suspect there may have been a degree of shame and sadness in that decision as well.
I did insist on walking around the area and asked the driver to stop at various points around the city so that I could get a better feel for the city. I wanted to see how life was reasserting itself in the town, as a way to provide contrast against the destruction I’d seen.
If you’re visiting areas like this in Syria, bear in mind that it’s not particularly safe to walk amongst the damaged buildings. First, there may still be unexploded ordnance. Second, the building structures may be unstable.
There is no end to damaged areas, so I recommend taking a few photos so you can tell your friends you’ve been there (note that the fighting stopped in Homs in May 2014, so it’s not like you’re ducking bullets or anything), then get to populated areas to see how the residents are recovering and going about their lives. Honestly, that’s more interesting than a few busted up buildings.
I can say that there is definitely a moment where you realise you have seen enough destroyed buildings. From then on, viewing more destruction risks fetishising the conflict, which I most certainly wasn’t there to do.
Krak des Chevaliers
After the guide almost literally grabbed me by the ear and pulled me back to the car, we left Homs. We drove west towards al-Husn and the crusader castle of Krak des Chevaliers.
Entering al-Husn, we had a stop at a military checkpoint to get our details recorded. Forever interested in these things, I followed the guide into the military checkpoint to observe the process. The soldiers were polite and professional (but didn’t offer us tea…).
Rebels occupied al-Husn and the castle itself in 2012. On 20 March 2014, the Syrian army launched an operation to route the rebels, which they managed to do successfully. It’s believed that around 300 rebel fighters were based in the castle at the time.
The town suffered significant damage in the fighting, with almost every structure damaged in some way. It appears that a few people have returned, but it’s clear that a significant portion of the town has either stayed away (either by choice or circumstance).
The castle was close to closing by the time we arrived, so we went directly to a nearby restaurant named al-Kala (may be spelled “al-Kala’a”). The well-known restaurant is in a nondescript building across the valley from the castle. The restaurant area and outdoor terrace provided a great view of the outer walls of the castle as the sun was setting.
The restaurant was pretty great. We sat in the dark enjoying a fantastic dinner of dips, flatbread we heated on the wood stove, and barbecued chicken. All while inhaling a lifetime’s worth of second-hand cigarette smoke.
Akram has been running al-Kala for the last 8 months and has been slowly working on restoring the building. It’s been a constant struggle for him. He has a diesel generator, but limited money for fuel. We ate in the dark, with Akram shuttling to and from the kitchen using the light on his cell phone.
We stayed that night at Villa Rosa, located in the nearby township of Almishtaya. In the street where the hotel is located, there were signs of recovery, but there’s still a long way to go. The town obviously depends heavily on people visiting the castle, and visitors are still in short supply.
The following morning we visited Krak des Chevaliers. We were the only people there, so had the run of the place. The castle was overrun by terrorists during the conflict, and they were living inside the inner sections. The castle holds the high ground and appears to be almost impenetrable.
Before abandoning the castle, the terrorists destroyed one of the staircases. There are teams on-site repairing the damage. You’ll notice that the walls are pockmarked by bullets and shrapnel, but the main structures are still in place.
Plan around two hours for Krak des Chevaliers. It’s quite a large site with lots of areas to explore. Be sure to have a meal at al-Kala while you’re in the area.
Aleppo
After Krak des Chevaliers, we headed north to Aleppo, passing back through the outskirts of Homs.
It wasn’t possible to use the M5 due to the ongoing military operations around Idlib, so we drove east and used route 42. It added a significant amount of time to the overall journey (there and back), but I’d say it made it more interesting.
The road conditions were generally good, with potholes and construction in only a few areas. We made reasonable time, and our driver was somehow able to juggle two cell phones, a cigarette, and often a cup of coffee without getting us all killed.
There was the occasional destroyed vehicle along the sides of the road, including an armoured troop carrier and a tank. Some of the civilian vehicles had probably broken down and been abandoned. Others were twisted wrecks, suggesting they were struck by missiles or other ordnance.
En route, it looked like every town was affected by the fighting to varying degrees. I didn’t notice one town that was completely untouched. This was an area occupied by terrorists during the conflict. Some villages were completely abandoned, the people displaced. Others showed signs of renewed life, with washing hanging out to dry on lines between structures, or children playing outside.
We passed multiple villages comprised of beehive houses. These are traditional mud brick houses shaped like rounded cones, designed to be cool during summer and warm during winter. The majority of these houses are still abandoned, with only a handful showing signs of life.
There were military checkpoints all along the route, most often as you enter or leave towns, and at major intersections. It’s probably worth talking briefly about the checkpoints, as they may be a cause for concern for some travellers. We never experienced any issues at any of the checkpoints. The standard process was for the driver to show his identification card, and sometimes a Ministry of Tourism letter (basically a letter stating where we were approved to go). Very rarely did a soldier look inside the vehicle to check on me. I was never asked to get out of the vehicle, and was only asked to provide my passport twice (when entering smaller villages). Soldiers looked inside the trunk at a few checkpoints (typically only at the checkpoints leading into the major cities), but our bags were never taken out or checked.
The soldiers were always polite and never caused any problems for us. Some of the best military checkpoints I’ve come across in years of travelling. If there was a Yelp for military checkpoints, I’d give most of them five stars.
For those of you used to travelling to war zones, a point to note is that the checkpoints aren’t very confronting. Unlike other places you may travel to, there aren’t armoured vehicles or gun trucks with heavy weapons pointed down the road (with the exception of two checkpoints we drove through). I didn’t see any soldiers handling their weapons carelessly or pointing their weapons around randomly. There were no signs of ill-discipline. Mostly the soldiers were just trying to keep warm. I suppose from their perspective, being at a quiet vehicle checkpoint is significantly better than being on the front lines.
In addition to the checkpoints, there were military outposts along some sections of the road. These were reinforced defensive positions, likely designed to secure the road and surrounding area. They were a few hundred meters away from the road on either side and weren’t a cause for concern.
We overtook a few Russian military vehicles during the drive and saw a large group of Russian armoured vehicles pulled over at a checkpoint nearer to Aleppo. There was a semitrailer carrying a tank moving southwards, probably for repair. Other than that we didn’t see much military movement on the roads at all (no armoured convoys etc). The point here is that you won’t necessarily feel like you’re in a war zone, but you need to be aware that there are some very serious conflict areas not far away.
There were continual streams of oil tankers heading up and down the road, most likely collecting oil from the north and transporting it down to the refineries near Homs. We passed these refineries on our drive. In the days since returning from the trip, these refineries were targeted by rebel drones.
The tankers made for some fairly engaging overtaking manoeuvres (it’s possible to light a cigarette and send a text message while overtaking, apparently). I think my fingernails made permanent imprints in the door armrest!
Very few petrol stations along the highway are open and operating, and there are often long queues of vehicles at the ones that are open. All of the petrol stations appear to have been damaged during the conflict, and some remain abandoned. Those that are open seem to be being operating on a fairly informal basis. According to the guide, fuel prices have escalated significantly.
As we neared Aleppo, it was clear we were getting closer to an area of active operations. The soldiers at the checkpoints were wearing helmets and proper combat gear and were more alert.
Signs of war are clearly visible as you approach Aleppo city. There are large sections of the city that have been devastated by bombing and heavy weapons. The damage was reminiscent of what we’d just seen in Homs, but it was difficult to get a relative sense of scale — I could only see the sections facing the road. Fighting in Aleppo lasted four years, finishing in 2016. This particular phase of the war left an estimated 31,000 people dead.
Aleppo Citadel
Our first port of call in Aleppo was the Citadel. This is definitely worth a visit. Give yourself two hours, plus some additional time to walk around outside.
As you walk towards the entrance stairs to the Citadel, you’ll see that the surrounding buildings have been nearly entirely destroyed by the fighting. If you’re observant, you’ll see the scars where mortar rounds struck the pavement not far from the entrance.
The Citadel itself appears to have been relatively untouched, but if you look closely, you’ll see damage from direct fire weapons. There weren’t any other Western or Asian tourists inside when I was there, but there were quite a few Syrians from different parts of the country visiting.
From the towers on the northern side of the Citadel, you’ll get a great view across the city. Everything you see appears to be impacted in some way by the fighting.
Aleppo Souq
The Aleppo souq is a short walk from the Citadel. The souq was almost completely destroyed by the fighting. A handful of stall owners have recently set up in the front section of the souq, and a new section has recently been built off to the side (only a few tenants were in the process of setting up in the new section when I was there). Much of the souq is still so badly damaged you can’t walk down it.
The Umayyad Mosque is a short walk from the souq. The mosque was severely damaged in the fighting. Reconstruction has started, and it may take a year or so to complete the restoration work. It wasn’t possible to enter at the time.
Aleppo City
We spent the night at the Riga Hotel in central Aleppo. This part of the city appeared to be minimally affected by the fighting (the buildings were still standing).
I was able to freely wander alone around town in the evening and for some time the following morning (without the guide). After spending a day walking through areas that had been badly damaged, it was cathartic to be able to be around people just getting on with their daily lives.
Valentine’s Day was approaching, so there were many shops and stalls selling gifts, including heart-shaped balloons and huge red stuffed bears.
From the perspective of a traveller, the situation in Aleppo appeared to be relatively normal (as normal as it could be given the severity of the fighting in the past few years). I didn’t see any military personnel patrolling the streets, and didn’t notice any military strong points. I also didn’t see any armoured vehicles parked on street corners. I wasn’t stopped by anyone to check who I was or why I was there. I was able to walk around pretty much unnoticed, which was great (I’ll admit I was a bit frustrated after my experience in Homs, not being able to wander around freely).
Early the following morning, I could hear the occasional explosion from my room, and standing on the roof terrace of the hotel, I could hear large explosions from the direction of Idlib. War was happening, but it was happening some distance away.
Before leaving town, we stopped by the famous Hotel Baron. Sadly it’s not open, and it’s not clear if or when it will be reopened. The building looks old and tired. It’s a great shame, and hopefully someone will take on the project and bring the Baron back to life.
Maaloula
After Aleppo, we set off back towards Damascus along the same route. The temperature was -4 degrees Celsius, and it was snowing heavily at times.
Two helicopter gunships flew low across the road in front of us, but other than that we didn’t see much evidence of military movement on the drive back south.
Along the way, we stopped off at a popular roadside restaurant called Abou Alaz (which I’m told means “generous”). The restaurant is hugely popular and was packed with Syrian soldiers and civilians. We sat amongst the soldiers to have a warm meal of bread and tea.
Closer to Damascus we caught a break in the weather and decided to head to Maaloula, which isn’t too far off the M5.
Maaloula is a predominantly Christian village and is one of the few places in the world where people still speak Aramaic.
In September 2013, Maaloula was attacked by Jabhat al-Nusra, an al-Qaida-affiliated group. According to my guide (who was from Maaloula), the terrorists that attacked the village were particularly brutal, and beheaded three boys who worked in the church and placed their heads on stakes in the village (I couldn’t verify this, but given he’s from there I believed him).
The town is slowly getting back on its feet, but many of the residents that left during the fighting have stayed away. There is some rebuilding occurring, however, the damage from the fighting is still clearly visible.
We visited the Church of the Saints Sergios and Bachos. The church had been badly damaged by terrorists, and all of the church’s artefacts had been stolen. Replicas now stand in their place. One of the sisters prayed for us in Aramaic.
Just next to the church is the Safir Hotel. Terrorists used this hotel as a stronghold, and it provided them with a vantage point to fire down on the village below. The hotel, as it stands now, is almost completely destroyed. The demolished playground to the rear of the hotel brought home the sadness of the conflict.
From the church, we drove back into town and went to the Saint Takla Church and convent. This had also been severely damaged by terrorists, but restoration is underway with the help of international specialists. Again, all of the artefacts were stolen.
From the convent, you get a great view of the houses that have been built along the base of the cliff opposite. If you walk to the left of the church, there’s a pathway leading between the stone walls that goes for several hundred metres. I didn’t get to the end of it.
Maaloula was a highlight of the trip, and definitely worth visiting. Give yourself a few hours, and make time to wander around the village. Let me know what’s at the end of that pathway.
Damascus
From Maaloula, we drove back to Damascus.
I’d arranged to stay inside Old Damascus, which ended up being a good decision. It’s a fascinating area, and it’s easy to spend hours winding through the narrow alleys observing the ebbs and flows of daily life.
Old Damascus had not avoided the conflict, and residents told me of the fear and panic of mortars falling during the war. There were multiple suicide attacks targeting the city in 2017.
Streets of the Old Town
I woke early each morning to take advantage of the good lighting for photography. On one street there were kids walking to school, grabbing breakfast along the way (crepes with chocolate sauce!). The walls on either side of the street were plastered with memorial photos of soldiers that had been killed in the fighting. It occurred to me at the time that many of the male children walking down this street will end up wearing a military uniform. If the war continues, some of them may end up on walls like this.
We sat for a time in a famous local cafe called Al Nawfara to drink tea. Each night a man narrates a story at the cafe, a tradition that’s carried on for generations. As the two men sitting next to us stood up, they both reached for their crutches. Both men had lost a leg in the fighting. Two old war mates getting together to support each other.
The great thing about Damascus is that I only saw one another Western tourist the entire time I was there (there are plenty of tourists from other parts of the Middle East). At the same time, I felt that I was completely ignored (e.g. I didn’t have people chasing after me asking me to visit their gallery, or all of the other “touristy” problems that plague other places). People just got on with their daily lives.
While in Damascus I was with the guide for half the day, then had the rest of the afternoons and evenings to myself to wander around as I pleased.
One afternoon I met a bunch of university kids who were studying English literature. They’d just finished their exams and had gone out for a drink to celebrate. They were still carrying around an almost empty bottle of Corona when I bumped into them. The group was on their way home. As one of the girls explained, girls can’t go out after dark because of (air quotes) “society”. Great kids. They said I was the first foreigner they’ve ever spoken to, which is kinda weird. It’s been a long time since someone has said that to me while travelling.
The Souqs
The souqs in Old Damascus are another highlight, and are great to spend time in. Due to the low numbers of Western tourists, the souqs haven’t had to orientate to foreigners and are focused on serving locals. Look out for the old bathhouse, which is still operating (there are separate timings for women and men).
There’s a famous zaatar stall in Souq Madhat. The stall has been around since 1912, and there always seems to be a large crowd outside. If you’re looking for something to bring back home, zaatar would be a great choice.
Umayyad Mosque
The Umayyad Mosque, located in the old town, is simply stunning. According to lore, this is where John the Baptist’s head ended up (there’s an enclosure inside the mosque). There is also a mausoleum containing the tomb of Saladin, located in a small building just to the side of the mosque. This mosque has some significance, and is believed to be the place where Jesus (Isa) will return at the End of Days.
Accommodation
I split my time between Beit al Mamlouka and Beit al Wali. If you can, I recommend you try both. Beit al Wali is deservedly famous, and is one of the nicest places I’ve stayed in. The internal courtyard areas are absolutely beautiful. Beit al Mamlouka is smaller and more traditional, but is lovely in its own way. It’s worth staying there for the breakfast alone. Staying at both provides a nice contrast. Grace and Lauren at Beit al Mamlouka were delightful.
National Museum
On my last day in Damascus I visited the National Museum. One of the wings of the museum is still under renovation. The museum is worth a visit, but unless you can read Arabic, you’ll need a guide familiar with the exhibits to explain what you’re looking at.
While waiting for our driver, we sat in a cafe inside the museum grounds (the cafe was changing owners, so wasn’t operating at the time). While chatting in the cafe we met Tarak. Tarak’s father was Khaled al-Asaad, a highly respected Syrian archaeologist and the head of antiquities at Palmyra. Khaled was publicly beheaded at Palmyra by ISIS on 18 August 2015. Tarak was shot in the arm and leg during the attack, but was able to save thousands of antiquities from the museum before escaping.
Hospice Sulaymaniyah
Just next to the museum is Hospice Sulaymaniyah. This is worth a look. Inside there is a nice handicrafts market. I recommend visiting the stalls inside the compound. I found these more interesting than the ones along the main strip.
Military or not
For those of you used to visiting militarised areas, one of the more challenging things is to work out who is military (or paramilitary) and who isn’t. You’ll find in Syria that many men will wear camouflage clothing around the streets. With the cold temperatures in February, insulated camouflage jackets were particularly popular.
Driving around Damascus you’ll probably see guys in jeans and camouflage jackets carrying AKs slung across their backs directing traffic. I don’t know who these guys are, but I guess if they tell you to stop, you stop.
As we waited in front of the museum a guy leaving the museum with his girlfriend openly tucked a pistol into the back of his pants. Must have been chilly…
Leaving Syria
We left Syria early afternoon, planning to cross the mountains west of the border before nightfall in case the roads ice up.
Aside from getting a flat tire on our way out of Damascus, the exit was pretty uneventful. We were held up for a little while at the Syrian customs post because their system was down. Despite the short delay, the departure process was as painless as the entry process.
Note there is a 2,500 SYP exit fee. This was paid by the driver (and was included in part of the tour cost).
Practical issues
Money
According to the tour operator, the best place to change money is at the border on entering the country (there’s a bank counter at the immigration checkpoint). It’s technically not ok to use US dollars (or Euros) in Syria. However, they may be accepted in certain contexts (not legally, so be subtle when handing them over). As with many places with currency controls, there’s a robust black-market currency exchange, but I’d recommend you steer clear of it.
Foreign credit cards aren’t accepted, so make sure you have enough cash for any meals not included in your tour package (you’ll probably need to pay for your own lunch and dinner), and anything you think you may want to buy for gifts or souvenirs.
Always tip because you can afford it. Remember to tip your guide and driver at the end. It’s a good opportunity to offload any remaining Syrian pounds before you leave the country.
Connectivity
You can get a local SIM card from MTN or Syriatel. A 2GB card costs 4,500 SYP. The simplest way (with the least paperwork) to get a local SIM card is to ask your guide or driver to buy one for you. They can be topped up if needed.
I recommend carrying a backup means of communication just in case you lose the cellular network for any reason. This is particularly important in case an incident happens on the road.
All the hotels I stayed in had reasonable WiFi. It may cut out from time to time during short power outages. I could access Twitter and Instagram (didn’t try Facebook) without any problems. My VPN wouldn’t engage on any WiFi network in Syria (the VPN app worked fine in Lebanon, but not in Syria).
If you’re communicating with someone in Syria, make sure you ask them what their preference is regarding the mode of communication (e.g. email, WhatsApp, etc.). Some people may have security concerns if contacting foreigners. Generally WhatsApp seems to be well used.
Power
All of the hotels experienced short power outages (each a few minutes, probably a few times each hour). It’s not really an issue, and no different from what you’ll experience in many other countries. The hotels fair well. Local residences and businesses suffer significant power outages.
Most of the hotel rooms had limited power outlets, so if you’re carrying a stack of electronic gear it’s useful to have a battery pack so you can keep all your kit charged up.
Photography
Don’t photograph the military. This is actually easier than I thought it would be, as they tend to be in fixed locations (like checkpoints) and not on every street corner. There are no issues taking photos at monuments where there are soldiers in the background.
Regarding taking pictures of the military, remember that it will only take one tourist to fuck it up for everyone, so don’t push your luck.
If you’re unsure and want to risk a photo, be overt about it and if there’s a negative reaction, apologise and show them as you delete the photo (if it’s on your phone you can undelete later anyway).
One thing to be mindful of is that the local people aren’t used to tourists, and aren’t used to being photographed. For this reason, I was more discreet when taking photographs in the streets. This also helps to avoid interfering with the scene. Most of my shots were from the stomach rather than from the eye. I just zone focused and shot away.
My guide often asked me why I’m taking photos of specific things, particularly in the streets (I was taking photos of interesting shops, graffiti, bicycles, doors etc). Again, to me, this just shows they’re not quite used to tourists and/or photographers. He got used to it.
I was only confronted twice when taking photos. The first time was when taking pictures of people buying their morning bread in Old Damascus. My problem was that it was an amazing setting, and I was looking for The Perfect Shot™️. I lingered a bit too long, and a man in a camouflage jacket came up and politely asked me to stop (he didn’t ask me to delete the photos).
The second time was just outside the walls of the old city, taking a picture of some random old building (I like random old buildings). An old man wasn’t happy with me taking the photo, so I let him watch as I deleted it. Doing his part to secure the nation, I guess. No big deal.
At no time was I stopped by the military or anyone official, and my camera wasn’t checked on exit (incidentally no electronics are checked at the border on entry or exit).
I’m posting pics on my Instagram account if you’re interested (including more bicycle photos).
Being foreign
Some people may be concerned that they’ll be hated on because they are foreigners (particularly people from Western countries). That’s not the case. You’ll be welcomed. In fact, almost everyone you meet will say “you’re welcome” to reinforce that (including the soldiers). Depending on what you look like, you may be largely ignored as you move about.
What impressions do Syrians have of foreigners? The Syrians I spoke to said that they thought the world has abandoned them, and they couldn’t understand why. They think America is only in Syria to steal their oil, and that America doesn’t care what happens to the people or the country. They believe that the Russians are helping the country in a positive way. They’re not happy (understatement) that the Turkish military has invaded. As mentioned at the very beginning, the situation is complicated, and you’ll meet people with differing views. The good news is that, as a tourist, it’s not your job to pass judgement or tell them what they should be thinking. Listen and empathise.
FFS don’t try to push your “democracy” down their necks. They don’t need to hear it. Keep your politics to yourself and focus instead about learning about the history and culture of the country (which is fascinating). You can speak about the war (in many contexts it will be weird if you don’t mention it), but don’t push your views or opinions.
Itinerary Recommendations
As you work through your own planning, there’s obviously a lot of cities and sites that you could potentially visit. Based on my experiences, here’s a few thoughts to guide you as you develop your own itinerary.
1. As far as I could tell, there isn’t much in Homs to see. I would have liked more time there, but I’m not sure I would have seen much more than what I saw on the drive around (in terms of things that would be interesting to a visitor). Still, if I went back, I’d like to have half a day there.
2. I would have preferred to spend two nights in Aleppo to spend more time on the ground. With the drive up and back, you tend to lose quite a lot of time. Once the M5 is operational one night may be enough (as I’m posting this it looks like the M5 has been secured and may be re-opened shortly).
3. Maaloula is definitely worth visiting and is close enough to Damascus to do in half a day.
4. I didn’t visit Palmyra, primarily due to time constraints. Obviously worth seeing and on the list for next time. I was continually lectured by my guide for not including it in my itinerary (once again, I’m sorry for that!).
5. Next time I’d want to see Tartus and Latakia. Both sound like they’re worth visiting.
6. For Damascus, plan for 2–3 nights. You could also break it up by spending a night there on the way in, and a few nights on the way out. I recommend staying in Old Damascus rather than in the city (this city centre is just nearby, but Old Damascus has much more character).
For guest houses in Syria and Lebanon (and other interesting places), use L’Hote Libanais. In Syria, your tour operator will arrange and pay for your accommodation (you can’t use credit cards or pay in USD), but if you have any preferences on where you’d like to stay, you can tell them in advance.
Overall, be flexible with your plans. The situation can change due to weather or military operations, so be prepared to adjust on the fly based on conditions as you find them.
Wrap up
In this article, I’ve tried to focus on the practical, to give you a few pointers for your own travel planning. I’ve also shared a handful of my own experiences, to try to add some context. If you’re considering travelling to Syria, safety will obviously be a concern.
The places you’ll be able to visit in Syria are generally safe. Your guide will not take you anywhere near an area where there is fighting. The areas where there is fighting are well known and avoidable — you’re not going to somehow drive into the midst of a gun battle.
You’ll see a lot of destruction, but bear in mind that in the locations you’ll be able to visit, the fighting finished more than a few years ago.
Of course, things can happen. There is certainly a risk that the conflict could evolve to become more asymmetrical. As mentioned earlier, when I was in Damascus, an improvised explosive device concealed in a pickup truck parked behind al-Jalaa Park, in the al-Mazzeh area, was detonated. One person was wounded in this attack. The location is not far from Old Damascus and is near the Four Seasons Hotel and the National Museum.
The Israeli Air Force is also conducting ongoing airstrikes against Iranian and Hezbollah targets inside Syria, including within Damascus. But unless you’re selling missiles, these airstrikes are unlikely to affect you, and it’s very unlikely that the Israelis will strike in an area where there’s likely to be foreigners (like Old Damascus).
If you’re hoping to visit an active war zone, you may be disappointed. You’ll see more guns in Texas in the US, and more military convoys around Salisbury in the UK, than you’ll see in Syria.
To provide a direct contrast, after I left Syria, I stayed in Baalbek in Lebanon. Outside my hotel (The Palmyra Hotel) was a Lebanese Army armoured personnel carrier, with its .50 calibre machine gun angled down the road (a soldier was manning the gun). There were armed soldiers stationed at multiple points around town. At around 9:30pm that night, I could hear sustained automatic weapons fire in the distance.
If comparing the two countries based on the visible military presence on the street (and based on the locations you can actually go in Syria), Syria seems to be on less of a war footing than Lebanon.
This, of course, is deceiving. This is why I referred to “two Syrias” in my title. While you’re sipping your tea in Old Damascus, it’s easy to forget that there is a pitched battle occurring in Idlib, with the Turkish military rapidly reinforcing and threatening to escalate the conflict. There are massive numbers of displaced persons now living in camps in Syria, Lebanon, and Turkey. Some can’t afford to leave and are trapped in place. Displaced persons are freezing to death in camps in Lebanon. It’s a horrible situation. You won’t see this side of Syria if you travel there as a tourist, but please remember that it is happening right now.
The Syria you’ll see as a tourist will be scarred by years of war, but the reality is that there will be no bullets flying around you or bombs dropping near you.
The other Syria is a living hell.
Should you visit?
As to whether you should visit, my response is to think it through carefully and be clear on your own motivations for travelling there. If your motivation is to be able to say you’ve travelled to a war zone, please don’t do it (you won’t actually be in a war zone, so you’ll probably be disappointed).
From the perspective of an experienced traveller with a diverse range of experiences, I believe that there is an incredible window of opportunity to visit Syria right now. There are very few Western or Asian tourists, so the country isn’t trying to twist itself in knots trying to adapt to what they think foreigners want. The experience is raw and authentic (while also deeply saddening).
From a practical standpoint, the country is also in the process of rebuilding and establishing a sense of normalcy, so any injection of money into local communities will be well received and put to good use. Spending money in local restaurants and shops will help people rebuild their lives. Remember that spending a few thousand Syrian pounds to buy a scarf in a local market is not funnelling money to the regime.
Reflecting on my own experience, I also believe it’s healthy for Syrian people to meet foreigners who can listen to them and empathise with their situation. Syrians need to know that they haven’t been entirely forgotten by the rest of the world. This is particularly true for the younger generation.
In any of you reading this are planning a trip to Syria and need more details, please get in touch. Happy to help out where I can.
Thanks for reading.
